21st.

Well I'm back on the road, after a most welcome break, and suddenly the end of my journey seems amazingly near.

I left Montalivet a couple of days ago feeling relaxed, well rested, well fed, scrubbed and frankly, spoilt. The joy of mattress and pillows still hadn't faded after several nights, and with the nights getting colder (frost on the ground!) I decided to leave the bulk of my sleeping gear there, and try and find hostels and mobile homes from now on.

A bit of a gamble, but there's not even that many nights for it to go wrong now!

Last night I was in Brigueil la Chantre, enjoying Maarit, Charles and Bella's generous hospitality in the chateau that they have been renovating for the past 5 years, and have only just moved into!

It's absolutely stunning, really tastefully done and with plenty of little quirks like the old built-in bread oven like the one at the farm, old stone sinks and of course a turret with winding staircase, though it's only populated by owls at the moment... and all overlooking a lethargic river winding through oak hazel and alder woods.

It made me want to be a child again, and spend days playing hide-and-seek in the house and grounds with Bella the dog.

But time moves on and Graham Blue was getting itchy wheels, so now I'm in Chatellerault, where I've rented a caravan for the night (for just 4euros!). It couldn't be called scenic, or luxurious, or even particularly homely; and when the train screams past every 27 minutes it's so close the vibrations shake the mattress springs that are digging into my ribs... but like I said I've been spoiled.

I'm on my way home.